Over the last 10 years, Tromsø has seen an enormous increase in guests from all over the world coming to the north for one thing only - the bucket list experience of seeing the Aurora Borealis. As a seasoned guide, having worked with several companies in Tromsø since 2015 and now running my own business, we understand the disappointment when things don´t work out as beautifully as pictured on Instagram or as smoothly as tour operators explain on their webpage.
We often feel that the expectation levels are set too high. Both the official commercials and tour companies themselves are to blame—and, of course, the "internet," which shows you the best of the best and photos taken with cameras capturing even the faintest lights.
Let's do a reality check on some topics where we get questions and feedback - what to expect and not to expect when flying in to see the lights!
The Northern Lights are a natural phenomenon; they cannot be guaranteed. There is, however, always a slight chance, even on the worst days. Don't worry too much about the Kp, as it has nothing to do with the activity. You can see beautiful lights on a Kp 2 and nothing on a Kp 7. You can also go out on the clearest of days and end up with "only" stars, or go out on a snowy day and get good gaps with a beautiful show between the clouds. Most days, there are chances somewhere, and on some days, the weather makes it impossible to know where to go. It's a bit like throwing a dart on a map and hoping for the best. In short - the Aurora and the weather can be both very exciting and very frustrating.
Cancellations are never optimal, and it´s a situation where "you're damned if you do and damned if you don't" as an operator. Guest will give you bad feedback in both situations, either you take away the opportunity of a lifetime, or you are accused of still going out when nothing is seen. Let me be clear - no company will cancel for fun, but for a good reason, and believe they do it to save you the money or keep you safe. This is sometimes difficult to convey, and we understand that it is hard to accept having spent both time and money to get here.
However - some companies will always go out, no matter the weather or the warnings. When this happens, it is a good time to question why this one company is going out when five others have canceled. Is it because they know something that everyone else dont? Is it because they don´t want to handle disappointed guests? Or is it simply because they need the money? With more than a hundred Northern Light operators in Tromsø and absolutely no regulation, it is our opinion that the serious companies will cancel when the chances of seeing the lights are lower than the risk of going out - and some will always put money over customer satisfaction. After all this is big business.
Some companies will give you an honest assessment of the weather to leave you with the choice of going or not. This is always a difficult "game" for the operator as they stand the risk of getting cancellations from the majority of the guests and still have to go out with just a few. But at least you know more about what to expect. It is always easier to give choices when in a smaller group, than in a bigger one.
We expected the weather to be a lot colder. Tromsø is situated along the coast and is not that cold on most days. Don't expect dogsledding or snowmobiles until mid-December at the earliest. The milder climate this far north makes the weather difficult to predict, and it shifts, sometimes, several times a day. If your guide seems unsure where to go, the reason might be that the forecast is going in all directions. The mild weather can also make the driving conditions difficult - imagine rain on ice and snow. Also, check the description to know if you will get thermal suits and boots; this is not the case with all companies. Usually, we don't need them since it doesn't get very cold - normal winter clothing is sufficient on most nights. That said, we do travel into areas where it is colder on some occasions, and use the car as a shelter if needed.
Should I book the tour far in advance? Yes and no. Reading posts on Facebook pages that promote Aurora tours will leave you with the impression that everything is full by the end of August, and that is simply not true. If you plan to come here during Christmas, it is a good idea, the rest of the season has availability on most days. The advantage of booking late is that you can take the weather and Aurora activity into consideration when booking, and most tours out of Tromsø are getting good feedback. The Northern Lights are there for all.
Northern Lights photos are lying - by a lot. The photos that you see on Instagram are not even close to what you see in reality most nights. There are nights every season when the lights are getting close to the photos and videos, both in movement and intensity, but you can count these nights on one or two hands every season. Don´t get disappointed when you can´t see the vivid green, pink, purple, and blue - you are not alone, and you need special conditions to see the red at all. On the other hand, if you are interested in photography, you don´t need very strong lights to get good pictures with modern equipment. We have already prepared an arcticle on Aurora photography for you.
Our focus is on chasing clear skies, not the Northern Lights. It's a common misconception that we are actively seeking the Aurora. On days when the sky is clear, there is no need for extensive searching or driving around in search of a gap. The Northern Lights occur at an altitude of 100km and above, and are visible over large areas, meaning that they can be seen without the need for "hunting". Even on cloudy days, there may not be a need for searching. A guest in a Facebook group expressed disappointment when there was no hunting on a day with only one gap in the area - the reason being that there is no need to move when you are already under the stars. When it is cloudy everywhere no one knows where to go, and it is usually better to stay put if the tour is not already cancelled. Most of us are not driving around for fun, although some may move around to stay warm or for a change of scenery, rather than to search for breaks in the clouds.
Waiting for the Aurora can be boring. When the sky is lighting up with green lights moving across time flies by, and we sometimes forget to eat. On other nights there is a lot of waiting - and it is cold and dark. Some nights we see lights from when we leave Tromsø, and on other nights we get them on the way back. Never lose hope until you are in bed sleping. Some guides will tell you their whole life story during the wait, while others are more quiet. Most guides have a lot of knowledge, while others are scripted as they are new. Active guests that ask questions is a very important part of the tour, all nights.
Northern Lights guarantees are probably worthless. We have already stated that the lights can not be guaranteed, so what is this? Some companies will give you a discount on the next tour, but depending on availability. If you are in Tromsø during the high season, don´t expect there to be any available seats the next day with the same company, and they do this because they know that most guests are here only a few days. If you go with bigger busses they might have seats available the next day at a discounted price to fill the bus - but still a discount, no guarantee.
Expert webpages and Facebook groups. Over the last couple of years a lot of Facebook pages and groups have grown out of the Aurora business - claiming to be experts and having the best tours, or knowing who has the best tours. Have no illusions, they are all getting payed to promote certain tours, and the incentive is not to help you. Some of these tours are in fact good, but make your own decisions. TripAdvisor is usually a good start. In general no one know how the weather and Northern Lights activity is going to be like more than a day or two ahead - that is just the way it is.
How often do we see the lights? Well, it depends on who you ask. Some will state that they have a 97% hit rate on average. From the statistics we have gathered over the last two years, this is impossible out of Tromsø, and more likely we are seeing the lights roughly 75-80% on average when considering all of the tours. This is still good, and means that some weeks are bad, and some weeks are good. You can't really plan this since the forecast is rarely dependable more than a day or two ahead, but getting here when the weather is nice is of course better most of the time. Don't despair if it is snowing when you come, we often see the lights even on days with snow.
Is Finland the wonderland? Short answer: no, although over the last few weeks, a lot of tours have gone into Finland due to the weather conditions along the coast. It varies a lot, and throughout the next few weeks, the weather along the coast might just as well be the best. Don't tell your guide to go to Finland because you have seen nice pictures from Rovaniemi the week before. It is a long drive and leaves less time to actually see the lights. For most operators, we go to Finland when necessary, and never as a first choice. In short - if you want to go to Finland, there are plenty of opportunities without going to Tromsø first.
How long are the tours? You´ll find a variety of tours ranging from 3 to 10+ hours. Choose the tour that fits your schedule, but don´t expect to pay for a 5-hour tour and be out for 8. Prime time for Northern Lights is roughly between 7 pm and midnight, and this is where the Kp is important: the higher the Kp, the earlier and later we can get the lights. Being out after 1 am usually makes no sense on an average night, but as everything with the Aurora is quite elusive, this is difficult to assess in advance. Remember that guides and drivers are people too - they need sleep and are usually not paid for extra hours. When the lights are good you usually to get more time, very few guides leave in the middle of a show.
Bus, minibus, smallgroup van or cruise? The way you are transported can mean a big difference when going out. Don´t expect to do a lot of hunting in a big bus with 50 people. The buses are dependent on parking, and it is more difficult to manage the bigger crowds getting in and out of the bus. The only advantage is that you will save some money compared to the smaller tours, and some have a working toilet. The minibuses are a lot more flexible, but have to stay within certain limits according to the law - the buses have the same limitation. They need a break every 4,5 hours, and can´t go forever unless they have more than one driver. Van´s are not limited, and are the most flexible option - they can go long distances, and don´t need a lot of space to park. The vans and smaller groups are usually the ones that go on for 10+ hours. Make sure you check the duration before you book - and remember that staying in a car most of a day still don´t give you any guarantees.
Boat tours and cruises are something entirely different. They take you out in the area around the city of Tromsø. On days when the weather is clear it is a comfortable way to see the lights, but they lack the flexibility when you should have been more inland. And yes, we see the Northern lights from the city regularly. If you want to know more on what tour to choose, there is already an arcticle on the subject.
Saving money on renting a car is not necessarily a good idea. If you want the flexibility to go out every night, renting a car is definitely the best option to save money. Keep in mind that driving on snow and ice requires practice, and that Norwegians have separate driving tests for driving in the dark and on slippery roads. We see rental cars off the roads weekly, and on some roads, you'll have to wait a few hours to get help, if there is even cellphone coverage. September and October should not be a problem, but from November, the road conditions can be everything from asphalt to snow, ice, and water. Booking a guided tour, although more expensive, will give you expertise on both driving and guiding and usually gives you a better chance at seeing the lights.
We hope you got a bit wiser, and that your expectations are more in line with reality. If you end up on a "hunt" where you have a lot of questions, ask the guide what he or she is considering. Don´t go to Facebook or Tripadvisor the next day to give your opinion without having asked when out on tour. Most guides are quite talkative, and have an idea on what they are doing.
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